Know your leather before you treat it

Check the care label, the surface texture and the manufacturer's guidance. A water-drop test is not conclusive and can mark absorbent finishes. If the material is uncertain, ask before treating it.

Protective coating
Lightly protected
Open, absorbent grain
An intact coating often resists moisture

Pigmented

A protective pigment layer gives the surface a relatively even colour. Many sofas and shoes use coated leather. Use a cleaner compatible with the finish, and stop if the coating transfers or becomes sticky. Cleaning and replacing worn colour are different jobs.

Check the coating1 guideSee the guides
Natural variation under a light protective layer

Semi-aniline

A dyed leather with a light protective finish. Natural variation may remain visible. Cleaning or colour repair can alter the sheen or transparency, so test discreetly and check the manufacturer's instructions.

Test carefully2 guidesSee the guides
Natural grain; moisture may absorb readily

Aniline

A dyed leather with little or no opaque pigment coating. Natural marks and variation remain visible. Liquids and oils may leave stains, but the outcome depends on the hide and treatment. Avoid experimental spot cleaning and seek advice for significant marks.

Specialist care2 guidesSee the guides
A soft, raised nap rather than a smooth sheen

Suede & nubuck

A raised, velvety surface distinguishes suede and nubuck from smooth leather. Start with a suitable brush on dry material. Specialist suede cleaners may be appropriate, but ordinary smooth-leather creams and waxes can change the nap and colour.

Start dry1 guideSee the guides
A waxy feel; some finishes lighten when flexed

Oil-tanned & pull-up

Often used for boots, these leathers contain oils or waxes that influence feel and colour. Pull-up effects vary. Follow the boot maker's care guidance and use treatments sparingly; excess product can darken or over-saturate the leather.

Avoid over-treatment3 guidesSee the guides
A peeling film may reveal a uniform or fabric backing

Bonded & coated composites

Bonded leather incorporates reconstituted leather fibres, often with a coated backing. Synthetic materials can also peel, so check the label. A cosmetic patch does not stabilise widespread coating failure; compare repair with covering or reupholstery.

Assess durability2 guidesSee the guides